YOU WILL NEED:
1 of 450 x 900mm 16mm supawood – top
2 of 434 x 450mm 16mm supawood – sides
1 of 50 x 868mm 16mm supawood – support
2 of 414 x 860mm 16mm supawood – box front / back
2 of 334 x 418mm 16mm supawood – box sides
1 of 418 x 796mm 16mm supawood – box base
4 wheels and 16mm screws96mm 16mm supawood – box base
4 wheels (45mm high) and 16mm screws
4 x 45mm cut screws
Pattex No More Nails adhesive
Wood filler or screw caps
Drill / Driver plus assorted bits
Jigsaw and clean-cut blade
Sander and 240-grit sanding pads
1. Start off by marking out where you will cut out for the holes in the front and back of the box for easy pulling out. Cut these out with a jigsaw.
2. Drill 3mm pilot holes at the top and bottom of the top and into the edge of the sides. Countersink all holes before joining the top to the sides.
3. Mark the centre on both sides and drill a 3mm countersunk pilot hole through the side and into the support. Add a bead of Pattex No More Nails adhesive to both ends before securing in place. This support adds strength to the table, but if you prefer that the toybox can slide out completely you will need to leave this off.
4. Measure and mark at 42mm up the sides of the box for mounting the base. This allows space for the castor wheels to be mounted.
GOOD TO KNOW
This height will need to be adjusted if the castor wheels are higher or lower than 45mm.
5. Attach the front and back of the box to the base and sides, making sure the bottom is flush with the bottom edge of the sides.
6. Use 16mm screws to attach the castor wheels to the underside of the base.
- Fill all holes with wood filler and leave to dry, or glue on screw caps after painting.
- Sand all the edges with 240-grit sandpaper until smooth.
- Use acrylic paint or Velvaglo water-based enamel in your choice of colour to finish off.
Article courtesy of EasyDIY